Plan a Sulawesi trip in one place: the six regions and what each is known for, when to go, the two gateways, sample routes, visa, money and safety.
Sulawesi is an island in Indonesia, east of Borneo, with four peninsulas and six provinces. It is known for the reefs of Bunaken, Lembeh Strait and Wakatobi, the highland culture of Tana Toraja and wildlife such as the tarsier. To plan a trip, choose one or two regions, then fly into the nearer of its two international gateways: Makassar (UPG) in the south or Manado (MDC) in the north.
Sulawesi regions: where to go
The interior of Sulawesi is mountainous, so plan one region at a time. The map of Sulawesi shows the six provinces, every destination on this site and the airports.
South Sulawesi. Makassar, the largest city on the island, is the gateway to the south. Near the city, boats pass between the limestone towers of Rammang-Rammang. In the highlands, Tana Toraja has tongkonan houses, cliff graves and Rambu Solo' funerals. Bira, at the southern tip, has a white-sand beach and pinisi boatyards. A car ferry from Bira crosses to Selayar. From Selayar, boats reach Taka Bonerate, the third-largest atoll in the world. Read the Makassar city guide, the Tana Toraja travel guide, the Tanjung Bira travel guide and the Selayar Island travel guide.
West Sulawesi. Mamasa, in the highlands west of Tana Toraja, shares the Toraja culture. It receives far fewer visitors. Mount Gandangdewata rises near Mamasa. Read the Mamasa guide and the Mamuju and West Sulawesi travel guide.
Central Sulawesi. Palu, the capital, is the gateway to Lore Lindu, a national park of 217,000 hectares of rainforest. More than 400 carved stones stand in its Bada Valley. Lake Poso is 32 km long, with the town of Tentena at its northern end. The Togean Islands, in the Gulf of Tomini, have reefs and a calm sea all year. East of Luwuk, the Banggai Archipelago is the only wild home of the Banggai cardinalfish. Sombori Island lies off the east coast. Read the Lore Lindu National Park guide, the Lake Poso travel guide, the Togean Islands travel guide and the Banggai Archipelago travel guide.
North Sulawesi. Manado, the capital, is the gateway to the north. Off Manado, Bunaken Marine Park has wall dives around five islands. Lembeh Strait has muck diving on black volcanic sand, and Bangka has soft-coral seamounts. At Tangkoko, rangers lead small groups to see tarsiers. Tomohon lies below the volcanoes Lokon and Mahawu. Likupang has white-sand beaches. Read the Manado city guide, the Bunaken diving guide, the Lembeh Strait diving guide, the Tangkoko tarsier guide and the Pulisan Peninsula travel guide.
Southeast Sulawesi. Kendari, the capital, is the gateway to Wakatobi. Wakatobi, a national park, takes its name from its four largest islands: Wangi-Wangi, Kaledupa, Tomia and Binongko. Homestays on Hoga and Tomia run boat dives on its reefs. On Buton, the city of Baubau keeps the fort of the old Sultanate of Buton. Read the Wakatobi travel guide and the Kendari travel guide.
Gorontalo. This province lies between Central and North Sulawesi. Near its capital, Gorontalo, the Olele dive sites have Salvador Dali sponges. An overnight ferry links the city with the Togean Islands. Read the Gorontalo travel guide.
Sulawesi seasons: when to go
Sulawesi has no single dry season, because each coast faces a different sea and wind. The south-west and the southern islands are driest from about July to October. The centre and the east get most of their rain from April to June. The north is least wet from July to September. For a first trip to the south and the north, come from August to October. The best time to visit Sulawesi gives the driest months and the calmest seas for each place. The Sulawesi weather page shows the forecast and the waves today.
Sulawesi transport: getting there and around
Fly to Makassar (UPG) for the south or Manado (MDC) for the north. Both have flights from abroad, Jakarta and Bali. How to get to Sulawesi lists the routes and the airport for each destination. Flights to Sulawesi explains the domestic flights. Pelni passenger ships also sail to Makassar and to Bitung, near Manado: read the Pelni ferry guide before a night at sea.
Crossing the island by land is slow, so a trip to more than one region needs a domestic flight. Within a region, travel by road or by boat. For road trips, hire a car with a driver. Getting around Sulawesi compares flights, buses, cars and ferries. The Sulawesi road routes give the distance and the drive time of each route. Small flights and boats change their days: check them the day before you travel.
Sulawesi itineraries: how long to stay
Ten days is the usual length of a first trip: two regions, with one domestic flight from Makassar to Manado. Wakatobi, the Togean Islands and Central Sulawesi need more days.
| Days | Route | Guide |
|---|---|---|
| 4 | Manado, Bunaken and Tomohon, from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur | A long weekend in Manado |
| 7 | Walks, coffee estates and Mamasa, from Tana Toraja | A week in Toraja |
| 10 | Makassar, Tana Toraja and Bunaken | Sulawesi for first-timers in 10 days |
| 10 | Bunaken, Lembeh Strait and Bangka, for divers | The North Sulawesi diving triangle |
| 14 | Palu, Lore Lindu, Lake Poso and the Togean Islands | Lore Lindu and the Togean Islands |
| 14 | Kendari, Wawonii, Buton and Wakatobi | Kendari to Wakatobi |
| 21 | Makassar, Tana Toraja, Bira, Selayar, Bunaken and Tangkoko | The classic Sulawesi loop |
For your own dates and interests, get a free draft route from your answers to a few questions.
Sulawesi visa, money, SIM card, safety and health
Visa. Most short-stay visitors use Indonesia's visa on arrival or its online version, the e-VOA. Citizens of ASEAN countries and a few others enter visa-free. Rules and fees change: check the Indonesia visa page and visa, SIM card and money in Sulawesi before you travel.
Money, SIM card and time. Indonesia's currency is the rupiah (IDR). Cards work in large hotels and city restaurants. Warungs, homestays and boats need cash. The Togean Islands, Bunaken and the Bada Valley have no ATM, so take enough cash in Makassar or Manado: see ATMs and cash in Sulawesi. Buy a Telkomsel SIM card at the airport: it has the best coverage outside the cities. All six provinces use Central Indonesia Time (WITA, UTC+8), one hour ahead of Jakarta.
Safety and health. Sulawesi's natural hazards include earthquakes, tsunamis, volcanoes and rough seas. Read your government's travel advice before you go. Check MAGMA Indonesia before you climb a volcano, and BMKG's marine forecast before a boat crossing. The guide Is Sulawesi safe? explains both. No vaccine is mandatory, but ask a travel clinic about vaccines and malaria for your route. Do not drink tap water. Medical care is mostly limited to the large cities, so buy insurance that covers treatment, medical evacuation and diving. Read health in Sulawesi and travel insurance for Sulawesi.
Where to stay in Sulawesi
Places to stay in Sulawesi groups homestays, hotels and resorts by destination and province. Sulawesi.com does not take bookings: you contact each place directly. Destination pages also list local businesses, such as dive centres and tour operators.
| Province | Places to stay |
|---|---|
| South Sulawesi | Makassar, Tana Toraja, Bira, Selayar Island |
| West Sulawesi | Mamasa |
| Central Sulawesi | Palu, Lake Poso, Togean Islands, Luwuk, Banggai Archipelago |
| North Sulawesi | Manado, Bunaken, Lembeh Strait, Tangkoko, Tomohon, Bangka, Likupang |
| Southeast Sulawesi | Kendari, Wakatobi |
| Gorontalo | Gorontalo |
Sulawesi activities: diving, wildlife, culture and food
Things to do in Sulawesi lists the main activities by region and best month.
Diving. The guide to the best dive sites in Sulawesi compares Bunaken, Lembeh Strait, Bangka, Wakatobi and Gorontalo. Read liveaboard or land-based diving before you choose. See the dive centres in Manado and the dive centres in Wakatobi.
Wildlife. The tarsier, the crested black macaque and the anoa live only on Sulawesi and a few nearby islands. About 100 bird species also live nowhere else. The maleo lays its eggs in warm sand: watch it at Bakiriang, south-west of Luwuk. Read about the endemic birds of Sulawesi and the maleo at Bakiriang.
Culture. In Tana Toraja, a Rambu Solo' funeral can last up to seven days. Visitors can attend with a guide. Read Understanding Rambu Solo' for what it is and Attending a Rambu Solo' funeral for how to go. A hand stencil on Muna island is the oldest dated cave art in the world. Visitors can see hand stencils in the caves of Leang-Leang, in Maros: read Sulawesi cave art.
Food. In Makassar, warungs serve coto Makassar, a spiced soup of buffalo or beef offal, for breakfast. Minahasan cooking, in the north, uses chilli, ginger, lime, basil and turmeric. Read the coto Makassar guide and the Minahasan food guide.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best way to plan a trip to Sulawesi? Choose one or two regions first, because crossing Sulawesi by land is slow. Fly into Makassar (UPG) for the south or Manado (MDC) for the north, and take a domestic flight between them. Ten days covers two regions, such as Tana Toraja and Bunaken. Match the regions to the season: the south-west is driest from about July to October, and the north is least wet from July to September.
How many days do you need in Sulawesi? Ten days is the usual first trip: Makassar, Tana Toraja and Bunaken, with one domestic flight. A long weekend from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur fits Manado and Bunaken. Three weeks covers the south and the north. See the 10-day route for first-timers and the 21-day Sulawesi loop.
Should I fly into Makassar or Manado? Fly into Makassar (UPG) for Tana Toraja, Bira and Selayar, and into Manado (MDC) for Bunaken, Lembeh Strait and Tangkoko. To see both, fly into one and out of the other. How to get to Sulawesi names the airport for each destination.
Does Sulawesi have one dry season? No. Each coast faces a different sea and wind. Bira, at the southern tip, is wettest in May, when Makassar is dry. Check each place in the best time to visit Sulawesi.
Can you visit Sulawesi without diving? Yes. Tana Toraja has tongkonan houses, cliff graves and funerals. Tangkoko has tarsiers, and Lore Lindu has rainforest and megaliths. Snorkellers see the reefs of Bunaken and the Togean Islands from the surface. Read things to do in Sulawesi.
